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    Home » Latest on The Kitcheneer

    Published: Nov 8, 2026

    Two Days at Mount Fuji: Lake Kawaguchiko, Chureito Pagoda, and Hoto Noodles 🗻

    Hey friends!

    Jake and I visited Japan again this past November/December 2025 , and if you thought we were obsessed after Tokyo… Mount Fuji took things to a whole new level. We’re talking misty mornings that slowly reveal one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth, steaming hot pots of local noodles, and that perfect kind of quiet where time feels like it slows down just for you.

    If you only have two days to sneak away from the big cities, this Fuji escape is pure magic — and totally doable. Consider this your friendly sequel: same energy as Tokyo, but with way more serene landscape and fewer people stepping on your toes at Shibuya Crossing.

    Grab your Suica card, a light jacket (November can be chilly!), and let’s go. Fuji-san is waiting… even if she plays a little hard to get with the mist.

    Getting There: JAL Spoils Us Rotten (Again) ✈️

    We left November 21 (a Saturday) to fly out to ORD to get on our JAL flight to Narita.

    10/10 recommend traveling with JAL. Once you do, it spoils all other airlines FOREVER. We literally had the BACK row next to the bathrooms and it was so clean, no smells, and the staff is so friendly and accommodating.

    In-flight meal was salmon, rice, delicious miso soup, a salad, and hot tea. It was SO good. I had a bit of a cold and I took that with a small sleep pill and I was OUT. Before we knew it, Narita was super close and we were almost about to land.

    It was around 3PM their time when we landed. Japanese public transportation is like no other. It just MAKES SENSE. We got our bags with care — they catch each bag gently and ensure all of your belongings are cared for like it was their own! From the airport we got our Suica travel card (a MUST for Japan!) and took the subway to a bus station. We were heading to Mount Fuji!!!

    The bus station was pretty packed. We did choose the busier time to come and see the fall foliage (worth it). We were also starving so anytime you’re in Japan there’s so many benri (convenient) ways to grab a small bite to eat. We found a small konbini (convenience store) in the bus station and picked up some essentials: face masks, hand lotion, mints, and two onigiri (seaweed wrapped rice balls with tuna or salmon inside). They are DELICIOUS and were the perfect tide-over snack before our bus ride to Lake Kawaguchiko.

    We got to Kawaguchiko station pretty late and thought transport would be pretty easy to get to our ryokan (an awesome Airbnb we found) but the taxi parking lot was empty. We downloaded this taxi app and tried to get a ride but no luck. We walked back to the taxi sign in the bus station lot and waited. Finally, a taxi showed up and we were able to check in!

    The host was very kind and forgiving for our tardiness (never be late in Japan!). He gave us a quick tour and showed us to our room. It is an eastern style bedroom with two futons and a view of Mount Fuji!

    We PASSED OUT after a full dayish of travel.

    Day 1: Mist, Mountains, and the Best Ice Cream of Our Lives 🥹

    We woke up fairly early the next day. I wanted to walk to Oishi Park across the street to see if we could catch some early glimpses of Mount Fuji San. Alas, Fuji was shy this day. It was completely shrouded in MIST!

    We were hoping to get some asogohan (breakfast) at Lake Bake, this amazing small family-owned bakery with views of Mount Fuji — it’s right on the lake! We walked past it on the way to the park.

    Lake Bake

    We stayed for 2-3 HOURS waiting to see if the mist would lift. We wandered to a shoreline area with NO PEOPLE. But I was committed to see this famous mountain up close. And boy, did it! The mist slowly lifted and guys, it was the most beautiful mountain I’ve ever seen 🥹. The serene landscape of Japanese cranes walking gracefully in the water, water fowl gliding by, and a slow chilly breeze coming off the lake. In that moment, beauty and impermanence held hands — the kind of quiet truth that moves you deeply. We took some pictures and simply enjoyed the view, hearts full.

    Next, we walked back to a nearby shop and picked up some souvenirs. Still no breakfast yet, but we needed to get going to catch a bus to the Chureito Pagoda. (Quick fun fact: This five-story pagoda was built in 1963 as a peace memorial at Arakura Sengen Shrine to honor the nearly 1,000 people from Fujiyoshida who died in wars from the 1800s through WWII. The view from the top — nearly 400 steps up — makes every bit of the climb feel like a gift.)

    We finally found something to eat at a small cafe — coffee and snacks. I got a sweet potato and Jake got a pork steam bun. Everything in Japan tastes AMAZING.

    We hiked up the mini mountain to this pagoda. This is a MUST if you are near Mt Fuji. The view is like no other! It was a HIKE though. There was a LOT of people! But all worth it!

    On the way back we spotted food vendors and treated ourselves to mocha ice cream… some of the best ice cream we’ve ever had and with a view! (Insert picture of ice cream with my Fuji in the background) We also grabbed a package of sweet green grapes for the road.

    We took the train back toward our ryokan for our onsen appointment. Our ryokan had onsen you could use, so we got to have a real authentic Japanese onsen experience. It was so relaxing — the perfect way to restore our muscles after all that hiking, letting the warm mineral waters wash away the day while the late light filtered softly in.

    After that, we took a bus to our dinner destination — Hoto Fudo (a hoto noodle restaurant). Hoto noodles are only found here in Kawaguchiko — a hearty Yamanashi specialty of thick flat noodles simmered in rich miso broth with veggies (legend says even samurai fueled up on something similar before battle). This restaurant was loud and full of locals (a great sign!) We sat at the end of a long table with another family — so cool! We ordered two pots of hoto noodles, a croquette, and two sakes! Kanpai!

    When we checked out, I told the chef “Gouchisou samadeshite” — a small phrase carrying great respect, appreciation, and contentment with the meal. He was so excited I knew it! I highly encourage you to learn a little Japanese (I find it fun!) — it goes a long way and adds to your experience by making real connections with people.

    We ended up walking back to our ryokan and found a ceramics vendor where I bought a handmade light blue mug. I’m a sucker for coffee mugs!

    With one more look at Mount Fuji under a sky full of blinking stars, we went to bed, carrying that quiet beauty with us.

    Day 2: Bakery Breakfast and Onward to Kyoto 🚅

    Lake Bake

    We got up early, checked out of our ryokan, and headed across the street to grab some breakfast at Lake Bake. They were just opening and a line was already forming! I got several items and paid in cash (always have cash on hand here — some places don’t accept credit cards!).

    We walked back to Oishi Park and enjoyed our baked goods (still hot!) while trying to see Mount Fuji. The mist had returned, but it was still a beautiful park to sit and enjoy our meal together. A woman approached us and I was thrilled that my little Japanese and her little English could help us have a small conversation. 😁 These fleeting connections feel like little gifts along the way.

    After that we made our way to catch the Shinkansen to Kyoto to check in back at our favorite place — Ryokan Mugen with our friends Tome San and Kazu San!

    Pro Tips & Plan-Ahead Ideas

    • Book your ryokan or Airbnb early — especially if you want a Fuji-view room. They fill up fast during fall foliage season.
    • Download the taxi app before you arrive (and have cash ready) — late-night arrivals at Kawaguchiko can mean empty taxi stands.
    • Always carry cash — many small cafes, bakeries like Lake Bake, and vendors are cash-only.
    • Check the weather app obsessively — Fuji is famously shy with clouds and mist. Early mornings often give the clearest views.
    • Suica card = lifesaver. Load plenty and you’ll glide through buses, trains, and subways.
    • Fall foliage timing — mid-to-late November is gorgeous but busier. Go as early in the day as possible for fewer crowds and better light.
    • Onsen etiquette reminder — wash thoroughly before entering, no swimsuits, and enjoy the quiet. It’s part of the experience!
    • Learn a few phrases — “Gochisousama deshita” (thank you for the meal) and “Arigatou gozaimasu” open doors and hearts.
    • New pro tip: Grab a blank notebook (or a traditional goshuincho stamp book) at any shrine, temple, or even the station shop for just a few hundred yen. Collect gorgeous handwritten goshuin seals (calligraphy + red stamps) at each spot you visit — it’s the most meaningful, affordable souvenir and a beautiful way to remember your Fuji moments.

    Is two days enough? Absolutely. You’ll see Fuji’s many moods, eat like locals, soak away the day in an onsen, and still arrive in Kyoto feeling restored.

    Will you fall in love with Japan even more? Yes. Yes you will.

    Sample 2-Day Fuji Itinerary (Copy & Paste Ready!)

    Day 0 – Travel Day

    • Fly into Narita (highly recommend JAL)
    • Suica card → bus to Lake Kawaguchiko
    • Late check-in at ryokan/Airbnb
      Our pick: Simple Fuji-view Airbnb with futons
      Other great options: Konansou (private onsen + epic views), Ubuya (luxury Fuji-facing rooms), Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, La Vista Fuji Kawaguchiko, or Fuji Ginkei for that classic ryokan feel
    • Collapse into futons with Fuji view

    Day 1 – Fuji Views & Local Flavors

    • Early morning: Oishi Park for misty Fuji reveal + serene lakeside walk
      Add-on option: Stop at peaceful Kawaguchi Asama Shrine (with 1,200-year-old cedar trees) on the way to or from the pagoda
    • Breakfast or snacks at Lake Bake bakery (Fuji views!)
    • Bus to Chureito Pagoda – hike up for epic views (nearly 400 steps, but worth every one)
    • Mocha ice cream + grapes on the way down
    • Optional museum detour: Itchiku Kubota Art Museum (stunning textile art with Fuji backdrop) or Kawaguchiko Museum of Art
    • Afternoon: Authentic onsen soak at your ryokan
    • Evening: Hoto noodles dinner
      Our spot: Hoto Fudo (loud, local, and perfect)
      Highly rated Tabelog alternatives: Hoto Kura Funari Kawaguchiko Ten (glass walls + Fuji views), Koubaiya Kawaguchiko Oishi Koen Ten, or Honjin Tsukasa for hearty local flavors
    • Stroll back under the stars
    • Other great option is to pick from Wabunka experiences. We’ve done several and it’s seriously the best! You can’t go wrong.https://wabunka-lux.jp/experiences/en_normao/

    Day 2 – Morning Magic & Onward

    • Breakfast at Lake Bake (get there early – lines form fast!)
    • Relax in Oishi Park with still-hot baked goods
      Add-on option: Quick visit to Fujisan World Heritage Center or Fujiyama Museum for more Fuji lore
    • Check out of ryokan
    • Shinkansen to Kyoto (or wherever is next!)

    Total vibe: Serene beauty, incredible food, and that special Japanese feeling of presence in the moment. Mix and match these options to make the trip your own!

    Have you been to Fuji yet? Dreaming of going? Drop your questions or favorite Fuji moments below — I read every comment!

    Until next time,
    Amanda 🥢🗻

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    Hi! I'm Amanda. Nice to Meet You! TI am a full time systems engineer by day and recipe developer/food photographer by night (and weekends). My husband Jake and I live in Virginia. Favorite things are books, traveling, and coffee ☕️.

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